Larochette

SO...Yet again, I've been approached with the Landscaper's Dilemma. I received two more offers for landscape gigs recently. Seriously - the first request was for mowing someone's lawn. I'm over 40 years old - seriously. Now, the second offer is a bit more intriguing...I've been asked to take a look at a cottage in the Burgundy region of France. I hope to get down there in the next couple of weeks, so I will keep you posted on this project. What a great way to see the world...

What do people think an International Man of Leisure gets up to in his spare time!!? Mow Grass? Au contraire, mes amis! I go and find Castles to explore!

Today's Castle is the Chateau Larochette

There's even a Larochette hat you can have your picture taken in...let me tell you, balancing that sucker was pretty tough!

The Chateau Larochette is also in the Mullerthal region of Luxembourg, and consists of a main house situated on a sandstone bluff as well as a lower 'Outer Works' all framed with a fortress wall. The spire rising out of my head in the photo above is the interior gate separating the main Castle from the lower works (to the right). The ruins were passed on to the Grand Duchy in the 1970's with the Manor House being completely restored over the years. The entire site is now a gallery for local artists. There are sculptures throughout the grounds, and inside the Manor House paintings and other framed art adorn the walls.

Local art hanging in the Great Hall.

I threw the boys in the Mini Cooper and together we zipped up to Mullerthal which is only a 30-40 minute drive from the Ville. The village of Larochette is quite nice with a main plaza that hosts events all year round plus many restaurants and shops. Equipped with my Luxembourg survival kit (i.e. raincoat, sunglasses, umbrella and dog snacks) I proceeded up to the castle bluff with Toby and Jonas leading the charge. Rather than drive up we took the ancient route from the town which led through terraced homes and felt just a bit more authentic. The online directions state you can walk up from rue de Mersch "next to house no. 48." Sure enough the path leads right along several of the villagers' garden gates.

...and we're off!

As we approached this particular ruin, it really became apparent why Luxembourg was able to remain independent through the centuries. You'd have to be absolutely nuts to try and storm this place...and this was just one of the vassals of the Grand Duc!  The original fortress dates back to the 12th century with the main Manor being built around 1350. Archeological excavations in the vaults below the castle have revealed Celtic artifacts at the site dating back to 5,000 BC! The ruins are an excellent example of medieval architecture. You really can see how {privileged} people lived, and Chateau Larochette must have been quite a nice place to live...if you were the Lord of the Manor, that is.

Inside the Outer Works looking toward the Main House.

 Toby had some difficulty staying still for his picture, so this was the best photo I could take. The grassy expanse inside the Castle wall would be a fantastic place for a picnic. I tried to capture this beauty with the boys as my subject, but takes 1 through 5 of the Pooches Portrait looked more like this...

Some of the gardens within the castle grounds - with one of my favorite's 'Solomon's Seal'

The Manor House of the Chateau has been completely rebuilt and is a great place for a gallery. Currently there are paintings, sculptures, photography and mixed media displayed. What a great use of space, and it's also an excellent way to ensure this space will remain relevant for generations to come!

Close up with the Manor House

The throne room in the main house - now a fantastic display area.

The vaulted 'basement' of the Manor House.

View of the Village of Larochette - can you spot Vicki?  ;-)

We decided to take a scenic route back to the village. This part of Luxembourg is truly beautiful, and as an added bonus there are miles and miles of hiking trails. The dogs and I hopped on an adjacent trail and wound our way down to the river valley and eventually back to the town square. The walk was nice, and we came across some very interesting things along the way! Up next on my Cavalcade of Castles is Luxembourg's Valley of Seven Chateaux...stay tuned!

The rock formations not only make a formidable barrier but also make for some awesome hiking!

I want NatGeo to try and explain this one?

...and yet another super cute PONY!!!!

Much nicer without ma biggol heayd in the way!

Spring found us!!

Tulips in our local park - Parc Tony Neuman

At long last, spring finally decided to arrive here in the Grand Duchy! I do realize this has been a strange, outlier of a year so far, but I am grateful nonetheless. I mean it was snowing just the other day...in CENTRAL SPAIN! 

I know I tend to complain (a lot?) about about weather, but boy-o-boy when the weather is bight and sunny, there may not be a prettier place in Europe. I will keep this in mind the next time I'm tempted to comment on the cold, cold gray skies. Sorry - just crept back into that dark place for a moment ;-)

With the advent of springlike weather, our local market is now in full swing. I popped down this past weekend to see what looked good...and, of course, most everything looks good. There's more to come at future markets since we've had such a late spring all across Europe, but already the produce has me longing for summer's bounty.

 I first went down to Place Guillaume II (the usual site of the market) to see what I could procure, but apparently things were moved around as this is a largely religious time of year. Luxembourg hosts the annual Octave at end of the Easter Season. The Octave is a tradition celebrating the Virgin Mary dating back to the 17th Century. The two week long pilgrimage ends with a carnival at the Ville's main square. Therefore our market was moved over to the Gelle Fra at Constitution square. Maybe not the most practical site in town, but certainly a beautiful one!

The spring carnival at Place Guillaume II

Market square was full of flowers, annual plants, fresh vegetables and of course local cheeses and cured meats. It can almost be overwhelming. One of my favorite parts about shopping at the Luxembourg market is, after the initial "Moien", when the vendor closes his eyes half way, cocks his head to the side trying to decide weather to launch into Luxembourgish, French or German. All right that's a slight exaggeration...it not really a verbal OK Corral around here, but due to my nondescript blend of western & northern European roots I tend to confuse a lot of people. When I shrug my shoulders and hold my hands out perpendicular to the ground (the universal sign for 'I-dunno?'), my true nature is revealed. This leads to much good-hearted confusion.  At least on my end of the negotiation! I find pointing and grunting works wonders!

Just look at these! The colors are absolutely stunning.

Also, I found this little cutie at the market as well. I mean how perfect is that? I found a single serving Cauliflower! That never happens at the supermarket. That said I do miss Jeni, tons! I know she's ready to get back for some much deserved Rest & Relaxation, and I am really ready to start cooking for two again!

...and speaking of Jeni, here she is at 'Ice Station Zebra.'

...and finally the obligatory shot of our cliff. Note the 'wild' lilacs cascading down the face of the rocks :)

I can handle it...

There are certain universal truths in our world. The Pick-up Truck Paradigm, for example. Anyone who's ever owned a truck has or will haul something (or indeed move an entire household) 'for a friend'. Conversely there is the Boat Rule; Never buy a boat, just find a friend with a boat...saves a lot of time and money. French cheese is superior - it just is.

I will share with you now the universal truth regarding Landscapers - which I am/was (a Landscape Designer that is) for many years. This undoubtedly comes up in conversation at all sorts of social functions, and the most common response when people find out I'm a landscaper is, "Oh my husband has some leaves that need to be raked up" or, "Why can't I get grass to grow in - fill in the location -?" To which I usually reply, "Oh, OK" or, "Probably too much acid in the soil." The acid thing always works because no one will ever actually test their soil. I'm sure there have been numerous backyard BBQ's where someone has said, "Yep, grass won't grow there 'cause the soil is too acid-y. We had a Landscaper out here last year." 

I know the Landscaper's Dilemma is a universal truth because it keeps happening to me here in Luxembourg...with Americans, Canadians, French, Luxembourgers, etc.  That said, I am an old softy at heart, and because I actually enjoying gardening I usually cave in and lend a hand to those who ask. I learned long ago that when working for friends...always work for beer (or wine as the case may be). When you toil for beverages, folks are much less likely to be critical. I have way too many get-togethers ahead of me to risk the story of, 'When Brian planted a Japanese Maple - and then it died.' Water your plants in the summertime people, and get those leaves up before your wife starts griping at me...you know who you are. Just a couple of free tips from a grizzled old gardener.

Will Work for Bordeaux.

 I recently popped in my first garden here on the Continent. While it won't win any awards, my 'Client' is pleased. Christian (yes, with the over-sized Caddy. I promise a proper photo soon - the dude is super camera-shy) just moved into a new apartment, and as many people do, he purchased a myriad of plants without realizing he had no way of actually getting them in the ground. Here's where I come in...for a day's worth of labor and years of professional experience I received a free haircut and a few bottles of French wine. Pretty good deal if you ask me. 

Not too 'Whiskey Tango' - at least he didn't make me sit in the front garden.

A popular Luxembourg aesthetic for gardens is what I shall call the 'Ratatouille Method'. In other words, buy one of everything (clear out the pantry), smash them into the same space (or pot) and see what comes up in the spring (ahem). I certainly understand the desire to purchase everything at the garden center, but when faced with the challenge of squeezing six pounds of flour into a five pound sack there are bound to be some issues. Fortunately I was on hand to talk Christian out of some rather dubious additional purchases ;)

Fig. 1-You recall this Luxembourg Garden Center, right? This is what a pro came up with!!?

Fig 2.-'Let's put this skinny green thing as close to that cherry tree as humanly possible.'

While not all gardens are this crazy, there really is a certain look to many of the green spaces around here...so, this was what we were able to come up with for Christian's back yard.

PSYCHE!

I shall get some more photos once things fill in a bit more...rumor has it there's to be a house warming party next month!

2 Legit

We finally received our official 'Legitimacy Cards' for the Grand Duchy!  A mere six months after arriving, our cards are now in hand. For what it's worth, we are now actual legal residents of Luxembourg. What I find fascinating about living here is how so many things are strictly enforced (recall our episode at Contrôle Technique w/ Miss Vicki - see also snow tires), and yet other items official are as flimsy as a balsa wood airplane. So...our official Luxembourg ID cards are tri-fold paper that I could probably manufacture in the basement of any elementary school library! 

Exhibit A:

I should have probably pixelated the card number, but...

...I must remind you, dear reader, that this ID card is rather feeble. Yes, those are staples holding my photo onto a legal document!

Apparently the rest of the European Union is getting on our case for these cards. Currently Luxembourg driver's licenses are also printed on paper with no lamination! I hear due to the outside pressure the new licenses are to be laminated with a magnetic strip readable by other nations within the EU.  This is a good thing. Since I am now able to get a local driver's license with the issuance of my ID card, I hope to get a proper card that will actually fit into a wallet! Again, you can clearly see that this card was officially stamped on April 10...just over six months - to the day - after of our arrival here. I was required to have dogs registered within 90 days for crying out loud! I think we will be traveling with our passports.

While we're on the subject of things not really adding up, I'd like to share with you the scene transpiring across the street from us. There are two major happenings taking place. The first is that the snooker hall has re-opened under new management! Hooray! They've done a nice job in refurbishing an older pool hall, and they do show international soccer games, etc. If they would install a dart board, I may never leave the place. 

...and Leo's was his Name-O!

The second major construction site is a new school they've been working on since before we moved into the neighborhood. Progress on the school has been laboriously slow, and I really don't claim to understand how the trades work in the Grand Duchy. Nor do I know how the permitting process is vetted here, but this...this has got to break some sort of work place safety code!

Oh yeah, that's a dude suspended from a crane without a safety harness!!

THIS CRANE!!!

The good news is that you can see the cherry trees and wild pear are in bloom! Even the beech and horse-chestnut trees are starting to leaf out finally! I sure hope that guy is OK.

Mullerthal

Let me begin this post with what may be the number one way to turn heads on a Luxembourg motorway...

Be seen driving in one of these.

A 1972 Emerald Green Cadillac Eldorado

My friend, Christian (seen on the passenger side), has an affinity for American cars...especially those with big engines. His 'everyday' car is a 5.0 liter Mustang! Christian invited me to dinner this past weekend, and when he came to pick me up, this is what he was driving! I have no idea how he navigates the narrow streets of the city, but we somehow made it from Luxembourg City to Esch on Alzette and parked this behemoth in a residential section of town! Needless to say, seat belts weren't really an option. I did, however, have the feeling that if we were to hit anything, it would merely be a glancing blow. This must have been how Patton's men felt! When we left the restaurant that evening I swear I saw three Citroens swoop into the space we vacated :) 

I know I use the word 'surreal' a lot in this blog, but how else can I describe some situations. As we were leaving Esch, we were flagged down by a kid (maybe 20 years old). He was driving - wait for it - a 1985 Cadillac Eldorado!! I didn't have the courage to snap photos of the two cars side by side...I wish I had, now.

Oh, yeah...Christian has the Continental package - what else?

 Ok - now on to Mullerthal.

The Schießentümpel Cascade

After my evening out in the Caddy, I decided to take the boys for a walk in the country the next morning.  Mullerthal is a region of Luxembourg just northeast of the Ville. It is know as 'Little Switzerland' because of the interesting rock formations, hilly terrain and medieval castles. Perhaps the most photographed site in Luxembourg that isn't in the Ville is the Schießentümpel Cascade. If you thought I was exaggerating that living in Luxembourg is like living in Fairy-Tale-Land, here's proof that I am not. Trolls, for example, do exist. They live here in Luxembourg, but they are apparently quite shy.

Toby, Jonas and I hiked a section of the Mullerthal trail which brought us from the cascade through the forest, into the idyllic beauty that abounds in this area and then back to our starting point at the falls. Over the Schießentümpel there is an amazing stone arch that spans the creek, and if you look carefully you'll see a Troll hiding under his bridge...I've not heard of anyone being eaten recently, but one can never be to careful.

  

 

Here is the stone bridge...

...and I'm pretty sure you can just make out the Troll's face in this photo :-O

From the cascade we hiked up to a plateau and out into the countryside. Just for the record, this hike took place in late April. Please notice the lack of leaves on the trees! Spring is taking its sweet time in arriving this year. Nonetheless it was great hiking weather, and the boys had a blast!

Luxembourg farmland surrounding the village of Waldbillig

...and here we are back at the cascade. Our own little monsters posing under the bridge :)

Since we were only a couple of miles from the ruins of Beaufort Castle, we decided to take a ride over after our hike and see some medieval ruins. Luxembourg is chock-a-block with castles, abbeys, Roman villas, etc...ruined or otherwise. Beaufort dates back to at least 1150 AD and probably earlier. The site was most likely fortified as a defensive position for the Abbey in Echternach, Luxembourg's oldest city. The medieval castle was reinforced several times through the Middle Ages. Once warfare advanced to a point beyond which walls and moats were of little use, the nobles built the  Renaissance Chateau next to the ruins. The last owner of the Chateau passed away in the summer of 2012, and Beaufort is now under the care of the Grand Duchy. Plans to create a culture center are already in progress. Can't wait to go back and see the rest of this place. In the meantime, here are some photos I took of the ruins with the boys in tow...yes, they let the dogs on the castle grounds!

Beaufort Castle

The castle's original entrance

Here I 'chained' the boys to the wall in the dungeon...

...where they waited for this little family heirloom to stretch them out. Pilates anyone?!

Mwoo-ha-ha-haaaaa! I like the little ears they gave him :)

And finally, because I have no other place to add this. There was a pony at the daycare just down the street from us! Enjoy!

A PONY!!!!!!!!!