Tuesday, August 12, 2014

Berlin, the Ampelmann and a Hat in Brussels

Approaching the Brandenburg Gate - Strasse des 17 Juni
Our recent travels have taken us to two of our next door neighbors' capital cities. Germany's premiere city, Berlin, finally made it on our "done" list, and of course any reason to visit the beautiful capital of Belgium is a good one! Berlin had long eluded us, but now it has officially been ticked off our list. We found a deal too good to pass up, hopped on a plane and spent the better part of a week exploring a city with an intriguing past and an even more alluring future. 

As we all know, the German capital was moved back to Berlin during the 1990 reunification. Nearly 25 years later Berlin's duality can still be seen everywhere. This contrast can certainly be seen, but I, for one, felt as if the scar left from the Soviet era Wall has healed over quite well. The growth sparked with the prosperity of a unified Germany has created a unique cityscape. Hip bohemians have been buying up capital real estate and turning the drab East into a cultural and creative oasis along slide the traditional galleries and museums that predate the Iron Curtain. Evidence of the resurrection is everywhere. The skyline is absolutely crammed with construction cranes, and there is scarcely a street that isn't under public works renovation.
Just a typical scene along the Spree River…can you make out the name on that old dingy?
The ad-hoc symbol of reunification is the Brandenburg Gate, so why not start here with our virtual post card. The historic entrance to Old Town Berlin languished just behind the Wall for decades. It was heavily damaged during WWII and wasn't fully restored until 2002. It was just in front of the Brandenburg Gate that the first section of the Berlin Wall was removed in 1989. It was here the Chancellor of West Germany and the East German Prime Minister met to shake hands bring together a people divided for over 40 years!


Other 'to do' sights in Berlin include the Bundestag (formerly the Reichstag), Museum Island, Checkpoint Charlie…yadda, yadda, yadda. Of course we stopped by all of these historic spaces, but the real fun began when we rented some bikes and headed out into the hinterlands. For instance, there's a restaurant in Berlin that has been open continuously since 1621! Supposedly Napoleon even ate there…wonder how that went ;)
The German Bundestag...

...Museum Island...

…and of course Checkpoint Charlie. Please note the Golden Arches. 
Then we got our wheels…just like the feeling of freedom felt back in '89 (I'm sure).
The 'Original' Berlin wall…the one that circles the Old Town.


Charlottenburg Castle
Zur Letzen Instanz - the oldest restaurant in Berlin
Where they serve dark beer…in Germany!




















Berlin is definitely quirky and the people there are truly warm and welcoming. Second only to the food scene in Berlin, our favorite part was the Ampelmann. Apparently the former East German capital was having quite a problem with traffic safety. To deal with the seemingly callous attitude of their motorists the city commissioned the design of the Ampelmann crossing signal. This idiosyncratic little man is rather fun, and reminds us that not everything behind the Iron Curtain had to be gray and dreary.
BTW…did I mention all the great food in Berlin?
Like this full American breakfast with veggie bacon and sausage!
Or, this 'Pancake'...
Some of the old train trestles have been converted into restaurant spaces.

And, as always, we found a Burrito shack. When in Berlin, dine at Dolores'
After our trip to Berlin, Jeni and I had a few days respite before heading up to Brussels (again) along with a handful of my teammates for an Ultimate Frisbee tournament. This time it was the XL Hat…which is to say they throw everyone''s name into a hat, draw out names, and we all play for the glory of a five liter glass of Belgian Beer! 
The Ultimate deLux contingent - (left to right) Ole, Swantje, me, Gregor and Michele 
My makeshift squad - "Armside"
….and here's how I spent the better part of a weekend. Chasing a stupid plastic disc up and down a  perfectly good field.



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