September 10th

Just a quick post on a special day here in the Grand Duchy. It was 70 years ago today that the Allies entered Luxembourg and began the final push toward Germany through the Ardennes. I found this old photo online at The Wort.lu. Anyone who knows our city will recognize these GI's chatting up a few local girls in front of the clock tower at our national bank, Spuerkees. It would be another eight grueling months that included the Battle of the Bulge before Europe was fully liberated. 

The good people of Luxembourg never forget the sacrifices made by those helping to free their nation. Each year on September 10 wreaths are laid, speeches are made and memorials are dedicated to the lives lost and the hardships endured during the Second World War. On the eve of September 11, let's not forget the innocence lost in all conflicts around the globe.

All right! Enough of that…let's get back to some important stuff. Like the fact our friends Ines and Thierry just got a new puppy!!! Maui is 10 weeks old, a pure bred Jack Russel Terrier and loads of fun! Eeep! Puppies are just the best! Yea Maui!

 

Even Toby got into the fray!

Ines with Ms Maui.

Whew! It's hard work being a puppy!

…and one last thing because I have nowhere else to add this little gem. I really do love languages, and this proves that Luxembourgish is absolutely awesome. Here's a poster I recently came across for a designer cat litter box. 

Poopoopeedo, indeed!

SoF - Un adieu doux.

The Summer of Fun is winding down and the rhythm of daily life is slowly returning to the Grand Duchy. A sure sign summer is on its way out is the start of our annual Shueberfouer which is celebrating 674 years this year! Before we travel down the rabbit warren of carnival rides, cremant and Gromperekichelchen, I have one more installment in our saga after the solstice.

We had a few more visitors over the last couple of weeks, and this only added to the joy that is our SoF! Our dear friend Connie came over from our hometown of Alexandria, VA to romp through the Northern European countryside. Also,Roger, a friend form Jeni's days in the Air Force, visited Luxembourg with his husband, Jean-Hugues. Whether it's been two years or twenty, it is truly amazing how friends can just pick up where they left off years before. Time and distance only serve as temporary barriers I've noticed. Jeni and I consider ourselves most fortunate to have so many loved ones able to take the time and visit us while we are Livin' our Vida Luxem.

Shortly after she arrived, we bundled Connie into the back of the Mini Cooper and sped off to France's Champagne region...because duh! Reims is the unofficial / official capital of Champagne-Ardennes region, and it also held a seat of power during the reign of the French monarchy. It was in Reims' cathedral (pronounced RGHEEESSS - I just don't argue anymore) that the French Kings were crowned thus giving the former Roman fortress a prominent place is history. The gothic cathedral was completed around 1275 on the site of a former church dating back to the Roman Empire (ca 400 AD). The original house of worship was founded by St Nicaise who subsequently lost his head (literally) at the hands of the invading Vandals.

See?

The Bell Tower of Our Lady of Reims

Reims is located over a large deposit of chalk. It was this chalk the Romans used to make concrete. Even after the technique of making cement was lost during the Dark Ages  the local Abbey and its monks continued to mine tunnels under what is now modern day Reims. Their efforts created safe storage and secret passages leading miles and miles underground. It was in these subterranean shafts the monks of St Nicaise perfected the art of making wine that sparkled. Through the years the methods of making champagne have changed very little. Now, however, almost all production is carried out by the Grandes Marques in Champagne Houses by mechanical means. Many of these houses are actually located in the city of Reims, and the wine continues to age in the perfect climate created in the tunnels of chalk. To be clear only champagne can be made in Champagne, and as your de facto tour guides we simply had to taste the local goods…oh, the sacrifices we make :)

We chose to visit Taittinger because Connie is a genius!

They still make some of the Champagne using the traditional method.

The Mars Gate is one of the last remaining Roman structures in Reims.

Cave etchings were all through the chalk tunnels.

We returned from Reims and showed Connie around the Ville. By now Jeni and I could moonlight as docents on the Bock, in the Grund or along the Corniche. The great thing about living in a fairytale-esque castle is that it never gets old. I marvel every day at the scenery, the stonework and the sheer scale of this ancient fortress. The countryside ain't too shabby either.

Connie and I at the Schiessentümpel. 

Strasbourg's Catherdral…it sprouts rainbows! 

Among Connie's many and varied talents, photography is one of her greatest passions, and she's quite good at it. As part of her European sojourn she wanted to see some of the picturesque villages in the Alsace region of France. There's no better place to start a trip through Alsace than Strasbourg. From Strasbourg we then headed south to Colmar and its famous Route du Vin. Yes, I know that every corner of France has a unique Route du Vin, but with towns like Éguishiem, Riquewihr and Ribeauville this place is really special.

The town square in Éguisheim - that's a stork's nest on the leftmost gable!

The main street in Riquewihr

Le chat noir

Of course Connie tried the local delicacy of Choucroute in Strasbourg…brave :) 

From Alsace we headed back to Basecamp-Luxembourg for a relaxing plop on the couch…or not. Connie wanted to see the Ville by bike, so on the trail we went. Ya know, just a quick 25 km pleasure ride…sheesh! That's what you get when you befriend a Spinning instructor. Of course we found plenty of time to drink and dine and to entertain. It was toward the end of Connie's visit when Roger and Jean-Hugues arrived, and together we toured the city dining at our favorite local restaurant down in the Grund and brunching at Chez Nous. 

That would be Brie stuffed French toast 'cause we had a French guy over for brunch (Thanks Angel!!) We did make good ol' American Homefries on the side, though. 

Jean-Hugues & Roger

Oh yeah, I may (or may not) have had a birthday in there somewhere :)

As I mentioned before, Jeni and Roger go way back. In the Air Force they were both stationed in England back in the 80's, and as often happens with friends (especially those in the military) they were apart for many years only reconnecting recently. Roger met his hubby back in the States when Jean-Hugues was working for a French airline. They fell in love, married and had a somewhat long distance relationship. Yep, Jean-Hugues is a Frenchman. They are now sailing back to America as Jean-Hugues has had enough of the airlines for quite some time. They are genuinely great guys, and I am glad I was able to meet them before they embark on this next chapter of their lives.

I'll say it again. I am just amazed at how time and space effect relationships. We met Connie just over five years ago, but it seems like we've known each other since forever. The same can be said about Roger and Jean-Hugues. I had the brief pleasure of spending just two days together with them, but a friendship surely formed in that short time. Now that the SoF is waning and the distances among our friends and families have grown once more, I realize how lucky we are to have such wonderful friends all over the world. Thanks again for all those who could make it over this year. The open invite remains and we'll be headed back Stateside one day, so c'mon gang let's start planning our next caper!

One last thing…the Bubble Hippies in Strasbourg are second to NONE!

Berlin, the Ampelmann and a Hat in Brussels

Approaching the Brandenburg Gate - Strasse des 17 Juni

Our recent travels have taken us to two of our next door neighbors' capital cities. Germany's premiere city, Berlin, finally made it on our "done" list, and of course any reason to visit the beautiful capital of Belgium is a good one! Berlin had long eluded us, but now it has officially been ticked off our list. We found a deal too good to pass up, hopped on a plane and spent the better part of a week exploring a city with an intriguing past and an even more alluring future. 

As we all know, the German capital was moved back to Berlin during the 1990 reunification. Nearly 25 years later Berlin's duality can still be seen everywhere. This contrast can certainly be seen, but I, for one, felt as if the scar left from the Soviet era Wall has healed over quite well. The growth sparked with the prosperity of a unified Germany has created a unique cityscape. Hip bohemians have been buying up capital real estate and turning the drab East into a cultural and creative oasis along slide the traditional galleries and museums that predate the Iron Curtain. Evidence of the resurrection is everywhere. The skyline is absolutely crammed with construction cranes, and there is scarcely a street that isn't under public works renovation.

Just a typical scene along the Spree River…can you make out the name on that old dingy?

The ad-hoc symbol of reunification is the Brandenburg Gate, so why not start here with our virtual post card. The historic entrance to Old Town Berlin languished just behind the Wall for decades. It was heavily damaged during WWII and wasn't fully restored until 2002. It was just in front of the Brandenburg Gate that the first section of the Berlin Wall was removed in 1989. It was here the Chancellor of West Germany and the East German Prime Minister met to shake hands bring together a people divided for over 40 years!

Other 'to do' sights in Berlin include the Bundestag (formerly the Reichstag), Museum Island, Checkpoint Charlie…yadda, yadda, yadda. Of course we stopped by all of these historic spaces, but the real fun began when we rented some bikes and headed out into the hinterlands. For instance, there's a restaurant in Berlin that has been open continuously since 1621! Supposedly Napoleon even ate there…wonder how that went ;)

The German Bundestag...

...Museum Island...

…and of course Checkpoint Charlie. Please note the Golden Arches. 

Then we got our wheels…just like the feeling of freedom felt back in '89 (I'm sure).

The 'Original' Berlin wall…the one that circles the Old Town.

Charlottenburg Castle

Zur Letzen Instanz - the oldest restaurant in Berlin

Where they serve dark beer…in Germany!

Berlin is definitely quirky and the people there are truly warm and welcoming. Second only to the food scene in Berlin, our favorite part was the Ampelmann. Apparently the former East German capital was having quite a problem with traffic safety. To deal with the seemingly callous attitude of their motorists the city commissioned the design of the Ampelmann crossing signal. This idiosyncratic little man is rather fun, and reminds us that not everything behind the Iron Curtain had to be gray and dreary.

BTW…did I mention all the great food in Berlin?

Like this full American breakfast with veggie bacon and sausage!

Or, this 'Pancake'...

Some of the old train trestles have been converted into restaurant spaces.

And, as always, we found a Burrito shack. When in Berlin, dine at Dolores'

After our trip to Berlin, Jeni and I had a few days respite before heading up to Brussels (again) along with a handful of my teammates for an Ultimate Frisbee tournament. This time it was the XL Hat…which is to say they throw everyone''s name into a hat, draw out names, and we all play for the glory of a five liter glass of Belgian Beer! 

The Ultimate deLux contingent - (left to right) Ole, Swantje, me, Gregor and Michele 

My makeshift squad - "Armside"

….and here's how I spent the better part of a weekend. Chasing a stupid plastic disc up and down a  perfectly good field.