Coast to Coast - Our first return trip.

The iconic Space Needle - without all that pesky sunshine.

First, let me thank all of the wonderful people that made our trip back to the States so memorable. We are very fortunate to have such amazing friends and family! Second, I must apologize to all the folks we weren't able to see. Our voyage from the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg to the Good Ol' "U.S. of A" took us from sleepy Findel Airport, through London's enormous Heathrow, then onto SEATAC and finally into our former base of operations, Reagan National Airport (just outside of Washington DC). Needless to say, this was a whirl-wind tour for Jeni and I, and we weren't able to see everyone. Sorry for the oversight, but we are looking forward to hosting more of our loved ones in the upcoming year...we are also planning on returning State-side for a nice long vacation once Jeni's commitments at Ice Station Zebra are fulfilled :-)

Our last view of the great blue skies before descending into Seattle

Enough of that mushy stuff - Let me start filling you in on our barnstorming tour from the Pacific Northwest to our former hometown of Alexandria, VA. As you may know, dear reader, our planet is a spheroid. Therefore we all live in separate time zones around the globe. With Seattle, Washington being nine hours behind our local time here in Central Europe - or through the magic of time travel - our epic journey half way around the world took just over four hours! It sure felt like 14.

The reason for our trip to Seattle was not only to see our son...it was to see our son, Vann,  get married to the loveliest bride ever! We can now call Alicia our daughter!  The wedding went off without a hitch, so the five days we'd planned to run around with our hair on fire were better spent in the company of the kids eating and drinking our way through the city. On our gastronomic odyssey through the Emerald City, we were soon joined by Vann's godmother Monique as well as his grandmother, Freda...who recently escorted us through the Valley of Seven(ish) Chateaux!

Jeni and Monique with the Groom. One's hipster quotient goes up two points simply by entering the city limits.

Ah, Seattle in early autumn...just like Luxembourg, only slightly warmer.

The obligatory shots of Pikes Market...

Freda navigating the stalls at the market

...and one last snapshot at the market.

For those uninitiated, Seattle may just well be the best destination for foodies that the US has to offer. Bountiful plates of fresh and tasty food are served everywhere in Seattle, and they are all made with love by people who have now legalized the munchies!

Try the Aztec Mocha or the Turkish Latte at Fonte on First Ave...

...or a Migas the size of your torso...

...or perhaps some French Toast large enough to gag a Hyena!

Alicia's family joined us from Florida, so with Monique in from LA and Freda up from Arkansas, I can safely say all regions of the US were represented well. The ceremony was performed in the Gas Works Park by Vann's cherished friend, renowned ceramicist and online minister - the Right Reverend Jeremy S! For the sake of brevity, and without further ado may I present Mr and Mrs Vann and Alicia Serling-Price-Waterhouse-Cooper.

See? You just keep getting hipper and hipper the longer you stay in the Pacific Northwest.

Stay tuned...more to come!

One year in the books...

 Believe it of not Jeni and I been living in the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg for one year now! Well at least I have. Poor Jeni has spent half of her time stationed at Ice Station Zebra. It doesn't seem possible, but it's true - C'est vrai! Thanks to everyone that has been sharing in our misadventures.

You've come a long way, Baby!

We've spent the last year negotiating this quasi-schizophrenic nation of 500,000 people most of whom come from some place else. In this way, we fit right in as just another couple of expats enjoying the lifestyle the world's second (or most...depending on who you listen to) wealthiest nation. We learned to navigate the shops and the markets, and we figured out how to get a car registered through the dreaded Controle Technique.  We found a wonderful place to live, and we've been making friends from all around the globe! We witnessed royal weddings, professional bicycle races and even an elephant parade! We are still learning how this tri-lingual society operates, but slowly, day-by-day, we continue to progress with our Lux-compentency and our language skills.

Which brings me to our latest bit of Luxembourg trivia...we (Jeni and I) are in the proud 1% here in Luxembourg. Yes, we are the tip of the spear when it comes to language skills in the Grand Duchy! According to the latest survey, 99% of people living in Luxembourg speak at least two languages. Well that just gives us something to strive for, but don't worry I shall always write this blog in my Mother Tongue! 

Thanks again for reading and stay tuned as we take our little circus on the road this month! 

Addi!

 

Freda and the Sept Chateaux

...or perhaps a better title would be, Where Are All the Castles At?

First, let me apologize dear readers. September was chock full of activity, and due to my obscene laziness, I was only able to produce one post. Not only did Jeni return from Ice Station Zebra mid-month (HOORAY!), but we also were pleased to welcome our second guest from the States...our dear friend Freda! Sorry about the lack of posts. I won't let it happen again!

Freda in the Grund along the River Alzette

Findel Airport - Luxembourg

Freda arrived in Luxembourg after visiting some friends in Jolly Ole England. After we scooped her up from Findel Airport and got her settled, we decided to tackle the renowned Valley of Seven Castles here in the Grand Duchy. I have mentioned before that there is no shortage of castles in our little country. There are no less than sixteen official sites and countless ruins throughout Luxembourg. Along the serene Eisch River there were built (in theory) seven very prestigious Chateaux.

The Chapel dedicated to Countess Ermesinde - 1875

We began our sojourn in present day Belgium at the Abbey Clairefontaine. Now I realize this isn't a castle, but this Abbey was founded in what used to be Luxembourg back in 1253 by the Countess Ermesinde of Luxembourg, Laroche and Durbuy. Suffice it to say I won't go into history lessons here as we have only a limited space. Please follow the links to find out more. 

So why the Abbey? Because the good monks built their habitation around the Clear Springs (hence the name) at the headwaters of the River Eisch. 

The ruins and foundations of the Abbey

"The" Clairfontaine.

Freda underground in the storage vaults

The remains of Countess Ermesinde - yes that's a Luxembourg Flag in Belgium!

We next went downstream to the village of Koerich in present-day Luxembourg. Koerich Castle is in ruins, but it appears that restoration is in progress. Not much to report here as the construction fence unfortunately kept us at bay.

Yeah, nothing too fabulous...yet. (please note the porta-potty - construction to begin any day now)

From Koerich we drove to the Castle of Septfontaines (Seven Fountains) where we did indeed see the seven fountains, but we were again denied access to the restored ruins by a series of earth-movers that blocked all access up to the castle site :( We did, however, enjoy a nice picnic lunch above the Septfontaines before continuing on the Ansembourg.

The Seven Fountains?

Hmmpff...foiled again!

Pay-dirt! Ansembourg is home to two of the seven classic castles. So enamored were we with the French Gardens at Chateaux Ansembourg (or perhaps due to the cruddy signage) we drove off and completely missed the fourth stop (Old Ansembourg) in our little escapade. Oh well, this was a journey of discovery and of sight-seeing in the idyllic countryside of the Grande Duchy! 

Wow...I mean Whaw! Photos don't do it justice!

Jeni above the Grottoes...

...who doesn't like a tree-tunnel?

After Ansembourg we drove up to the hilltop sentry that is Hollenfels Castle. Hollenfels has been completely restored and now houses a youth hostel and community center. Unfortunately neither were open on our day through the Valley Eisch, and I was beginning to see a pattern emerge.

Hollenfels Castle

Jeni & Freda at Hollenfels

According to the sparse literature I could find on the Valley of Sept Chateaux, Mersch Castle would be our final castle of the day. For those of you not keeping score at home, let me do a quick recap. First there was the Abbey, but this is not to be counted as one of the Seven Castles. Then there were two proper castles that were rather modest / not accessible. The next two castles were side by side, but there was nothing to show the way to our fourth stop of the day. Castle number five was on top of a rock bluff and locked. Finally to be followed by the castle in Mersch. We drove down to Mersch. We drove through Mersch. We turned around, and we drove through Mersch a second time. We did not see a castle, nor did we see anything resembling a sign for said castle. So, castle number six was also a bust. Upon further research, we actually did see the castle, but as we drove by it, we thought it was just part of the local High School. Again, oh well.

Schoenfels Castle with Vicki out front...imagine the possiblities!

What about the Seventh Castle? I mean it's called the Valley of Seven Castles, right? Jeni and I have been eying up the Castle at Schoenfels for the past year. It's technically along the Mamer River, but close enough that some resources include it in the Valley Tour. So we did just that. This medieval (ca. 1150) castle is truly beautiful. Once we win the lottery, Jennifer and I intend to purchase this from the Duke and set up our Elephant Orphanage and Dachshund Dood-Ranch! It makes perfect sense if you think about it...Elephants, Dachshunds and Luxembourg. What could possibly go wrong? 

Nope...no l'elefants here!

So after thoroughly exhausting our suffering house guest and driving all over the countryside to discover the Valley of Seven-ish (four really) Castles, we really needed a palate cleanser. What to do? The next day we drove poor Freda all the way to the interior of the Budesrepublik to visit a proper Castle...the Reichsburg in Cochem, Germany!

View of the River Moselle from the Balcony at the Reichsburg.

Seriously, we had a great time. Freda was a wonderful diversion and a super guest...and a much needed excuse to visit the Vallee des Sept Chateaux. We did spend a lot time reminiscing, eating and just enjoying each others' company. When it came time to say farewell to Freda, we packed her up with a bounty of food for the next leg of her trip. We trundled her down to the train station, and off she went to see Paris and the Louvre - yet another castle :-O

 

Just some of the goodies we packed for Freda's final leg of her European tour!

Get your Gromperekichelcher on at the Scheuberfouer

The Schueberfouer is celebrating its 673rd incarnation this year, and love it or hate it, the annual fun-fair always brings in the crowds. Yes, that's correct...Luxembourg's annual festival has been a fixture here in the Ville since 1340! From talking to the locals, the Schueberfouer is much more than a carnival with rides and, of course, food & drink. It is part of their cultural heritage. It's fun to see people walking the concourse and stopping every 10 yards to chat with old friends. However, for the good people living in the Limpertsberg neighborhood adjoining the festival site, the fun-fair can be a bit of a nuisance with parking at a premium and of course the rivers of beer and urine running down the gutters! You just have to look beyond the carnies and lop-sided 'games of chance' to see a more gentile tradition that originated as an opportunity for neighbors to meet and merchants to sell their wares. 

The festival runs for three weeks at the end of August through the beginning of September. Apparently over 2 million people visit the Scheuberfouer each year...that's about four times the entire population of the Grand Duchy! There are beer gardens and restaurants galore, and to my surprise there was even a burlesque review in drag on the main concourse! The fair runs all day long with the real revelry starting well after dark. Every night I can hear the bands and the partying from my window until all hours of the early morning. Down in Rollingergrund its more white noise to me...I can only imagine what it sounds like up on the plateau!

The Scheuberfouer from above - via the uber-sized Ferris Wheel

The Scheuberfouer is fueled with a myriad of traditional foods including grilled sausages (of all types), fried fish, pommes frites and the one and only GROMPEREKICHELCHER! (Say it slowly - gromp-er-ah-kish-ell-shur.)

Thank goodness they only roll these goodies out on special occasions. Gromperekichelcher are deep fried potato pancakes loaded with herbs, eggs and Lord knows what else. Unique to Luxembourg, the technique - as far as I can see - is to prepare a batter of the potato-ie-yumminess then pan-fry this mixture into square 'gallettes'. From there they are deep-fried to order...I'm seeing a pattern, and the tasty benefits of double frying potatoes!  Wash it down with a local brew, and you're ready for anything the Scheuberfouer has to throw at you!

Here's the Gromperewerks!

Say no more:)

The view from the Ferris wheel was quite nice, but the modern buildings really block the view of the old town. It was a great way to see the city though.

See - you can just make out the spire of the Cathedral behind that hideous block of concrete.